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Cabinetry 101

>cabinetry 101

cabinetry 101 . glossary . the right materials . construction matters . to the finish . soft on hardware





Learn about cabinets and how to understand the differences in brands, construction and quality...

Are there differences? What does custom and semi-custom mean? Why is price a consideration? Which cabinetry works best for me? So many questions! Let's break down some of the things our customers ask often and see if we can answer your questions...

How do these differences affect my overall project?

The old saying you get what you pay for goes a long way to explain the finished quality of your project. Choosing the right cabinetry for your budget is one way we can help. Not all inexpensive cabinetry is poor quality, but the best cabinetry is usually not the least expensive. We'll look at things that can affect the cost of your project and show you how to spend money in the right areas, and how to save money on your project.

As with any project, starting with the right product can save many worries down the line. We'll help you make the right choice.

















>easy cabinet glossary...     [scroll down for more info]

cabinetry 101 . glossary . the right materials . construction matters . to the finish . soft on hardware


Cabinet Types

Semi-Custom/Built-To-Order
  Cabinetry manufactured in a greater variety of standard sizes, finishes and styles. Each kitchen is built-to-order within standard specifications and may include optional modifications and/or more factory installed accessory items for customization.
 
Custom
  Any cabinets built to specific, requested measurements. Custom cabinets usually have extended production time and a wide range of pricing and construction standards . "Custom" indicates the cabinets were built for a specific order, but does not imply quality standards. Custom cabinets may or may not meet KCMA* or ANSI** standards.
 
Stock
  Cabinets constructed in standard sizes, usually in 3" increments, and in selected door styles and colors. Inventoried before being sold, stock cabinets are often available off the shelf, or within days and are usually the most economically priced fully assembled cabinets . Stock cabinets often have some accessory items available for job-site installation but usually suffer quality issues from storage.
 
RTA (ready to assemble) or KD (knock down) or Flat Pack.
  These cabinets are usually available in limited sizes and colors and require the buyer to take responsibility for assembly and usually are made of inferior materials.
     













































>the right materials      [scroll down for more info]

cabinetry 101 . glossary . the right materials . construction matters . to the finish . soft on hardware


>related topic - see also: wood species section in image gallery

Engineered wood vs. Plywood?-
There are various types of wood that cabinet manufacturers and makers use in the production of cabinetry for your home.

   
Particle Board / MDF
Plywood










The type of wood with which your cabinet is constructed has a big influence on it's lifespan, durability and quality. Cheaper cabinetry is made from Engineered woods such as particle board and MDF (Medium Denisty Fiber Board). Cabinet grade Plywood is preferred among quality manufacturers. The construction material used in a cabinet can also greatly affect the final installation. Warped shelving, damage from water or stored liquids is a concern when parts of cabinetry are made from Engineered wood. In some instances, Engineered woods are used in the construction of door panels in order to reduce the overall cost of the cabinet style when veneered or covered with opaque stains..

Face Frame and Door Component wood-
There are a variety of woods to choose from for the face frame and door components of your cabinetry. Higher quality woods with greater hardness factors and similarity of grains from tree to tree are usually chosen to construct the face frame and door components. Although most cabinet grade woods used in these "visible" areas are of higher quality, some manufacturers differ greatly in the joinery and the ultimate fit of the cabinet face frame and door.

Opaque vs Stain Quality -
When choosing a finish for your cabinetry, it is a good idea to see how the color or stain of your cabinet will take to the wood you've chosen. Opaque or painted cabinets can use a less expensive wood to construct the "visible" areas of the cabinet which can result in a cost savings to you. Clearer stains that expose more of the grain and character of the wood often require higher quality and more expensive wood to be used, since the grain and natural characteristics of the wood are easily seen. Aesthics do play a part, since knotty open grained woods like Oak and Hickory are often chosen with clear stains so that the beauty and stress of the wood can show through.

Plastic Parts-
An indicator of the way a cabinet manufaturer saves money in production is using plastic parts as corner bracing and section or frame joinery. Higher quality manufacturers stick to wood components throughout the construction of the cabinetry. in the hanging rails, side stretchers and corner bracing. Let's face it...plastic bends, and that can affect how a cabinet handles the weight you place inside. Corner bracing can lead to "racking", or skewing of the cabinet out of square when installed, and this affects the "fit and finish" of your installation.





























>construction matters     [scroll down for more info]

cabinetry 101 . glossary . the right materials . construction matters . to the finish . soft on hardware




click the picture or link to open the anatomy of a cabinet info window

Just like any fine piece of furniture, the quality of the construction of your cabinetry sets the baseline for it's durability, it's trouble free installation and it's look.

Use of plastic parts and less expensive wood usually is a sign that a cabinet is made for the short term. Some manufacturers try to sell the outer part of the cabinet as the only part you "see". Let's face it, you use all of your cabinet, not just the outside.

Poor construction and low quality materials lead to the breakdown of the overall performance of a cabinet, and leads to it's early replacement. Typically the cost of upgrading the construction of the cabinet is least expensive way to ensure you won't have to replace your cabinets early do to failure.

The doors and face may be the parts of the cabinet you see most, but sagging shelves and cabinets that come off the wall under a heavy load of dishes is something you probably want to avoid.




























>to the finish

cabinetry 101 . glossary . the right materials . construction matters . to the finish . soft on hardware


>related topic - see also: stains section in image gallery



Where the quality starts
-
A good finish is the most import part of your cabinetry. How it holds up to normal use depends on the quality of the materials used and the quality of their application. Odds are if you are for replacement cabinetry, it's proably because the finish on your present cabinetry has failed.

Finishing steps-
Quality manufacturers use multi-million dollar facilities to apply the finishes on the cabinets they make. The compounds used in the finish are test for years for maximum endurance under a variety of conditions. Less expensive cabinets usually skimp in this area. Today's finishes provided by companies who use these facilities are amound the highest quality finishes in the world. Multi-step application of stain, multi-layered expoxy top coating cured with a halogen light system is head and shoulders above finishes that can be applied locally or with less expensive brands.

Why mom and pop local shops can't compete-
Local cabinet shops simply do not have the facilities to apply these finishes. The hallmark of home built or shop built cabinetry is usually the ineffective endurance of the finish. Sunlight can also cause uneven fading of the finish (example). Quality of craftsmanship aside, the finish these local shops produce is usually inferior.










































>soft on hardware

cabinetry 101 . glossary . the right materials . construction matters . to the finish . soft on hardware







Ball bearing vs synthetic rollers
-

Quality and durability- Ball bearing self-closing drawer glides are the ultimate in cabinet drawer runners. These precision pieces of hardware are designed to handle the hundreds of opening and closing actions of your drawers The self-closing mechanism protects your cabinets and drawer contents from slamming and fast weight shift of utensils or knives which can damage the interior of the drawer.



Low quality and less durable- Nylon roller style drawer slides are the basic economy drawer slide used in cheap cabinetry. These style of slides are less precise and allow for mis-alignment of the drawer on the tracks, which wears the rollers over time. This type of roller does not permit the full extension of the drawer to allow access to all of it's contents.





Hinges Types-

Barrel (or knuckle) hinges - the first of the 'self-closing', spring loaded variety, these hinges are fully exposed on the front frame of traditional framed cabinets. A highly decorative version of the barrel hinge may be used for inset doors and be fully visible. This type typically does not have the spring loaded self closing mechanism. Barrel hinges provide a wide door opening.
Knife hinges - this hinge type is often partially embedded in and screwed to the cabinet frame. It may be fully visible or only partially visible when the door is closed. Knife hinges also provide a full 180 degree door opening. This type of hinge in used in non-overlay style doors and provides less adjustability.
Concealed hinges - (sometimes called Euro style) several varieties which do not show when the door is closed. These are typically recessed and screwed into a "cup" or routed recessed area in the door and screwed to the cabinet face frame or side (end) panel. Most are also 'self-closing'. This type of hinge may also feature a 'clip' making it easy to remove and replace, handy for cleaning as well as original installation. Although concealed hinges are also the most easily adjustable and adjust in more ways than other type, they only allow a limited (up to 110 degree) or partial opening.


The door style and function desired will dictate the manufacturer's hinge choice. (Hinges are rarely a choice the consumer makes, except as they relate to the door style you choose.) Generally, partial overlay doors will have knuckle, knife or even concealed hinges. Full overlay door styles and frameless cabinets always have concealed hinges.





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